By riverflows on Skatehive
This morning I went surfing. Now that wouldn't be such a big deal, except my hip has been so sore I haven't surfed since December, and I had a moment there where I thought I wouldn't surf again. Am I in heaven? I had recalibrated. Imagined my life without surfing. I'd been in the ocean every single day bar one all year, even post injection when I was meant to stay out. Surfers tend to ignore medical advice, or perhaps medical advice doesn't understand sometimes surfing is the cure not the problem. I saw an old boy paddle out yesterday with his cap on hiding the possible skin cancers he'd had cut out. 'Well, I'm gonna die anyway', he said. 'You don't care at 78'. This year I've been counting my blessings so hard, and I haven't even had to try. I wasn't born in the Middle East. I wasn't born with a disability, or to abusive parents. I have never had an abusive relationship, a limb amputation, a cancer, or lose a ton of friends in a school shooting. I am so fucking lucky. Here I am living