By riverflows on Skatehive
Back in the day there wasn't a lot of woman in the water - you could count them with a scant handful of seaweed beads plucked from the reef. These days some line ups are only woman. It's a different energy for sure, mostly more forgiving and friendly, though there's those that won't look at you and surf aggressively and sit deep on the inside to steal your waves. I love the early, early mornings with the girls the best. There's a handful of us - yes, you could count them with a scant handful of seaweed beads - that rise well before dawn to suit up and paddle out by moonlight. We long for the early low tides. On Saturday morning I arrived in third place - Alisha (let's assume I'm not using their real names) is already out in the dark with her pink railed board and pixie stance against dark waves, Dina is mid pulling on her suit, and then there's me, that still manages to beat Dina out there as I'm fast to her slow. We sit out waiting for the slow sets, thrilled with the reddest of sunri