By riverflows on Skatehive
Although I'd love to say this photo is me, it's of my best mate, surfing a little hidden break on the surf coast called Pixies. Her Dad was a big wave surfer and shaped his own boards, and she's riding one of his shapes, recognisable to surfing buffs who might know Willy's shapes. I'm sitting up on the cliff taking photos - it's not a break I like to surf on the longboard. On this day, though, I kinda wish I could have paddled out - bronchitis meant that the last thing I was going to do is jump the fence and clamber down the slippery cliff. There's no proper access to this beach as the cliffs are dangerous and crumbling. It's a stunning spot though and one of my favourites on the coast. He used to drive his old HOlden on the beach here when he was young, with Mum, for surfing and picnics. Unheard of now. My Dad's ashes will be spread here, when we are ready. All men become ash. It is the way of things. My mate's Dad used to shout at people who dared to paddle out to 'his' left at Pixie